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Supercharging vs. Turbocharging

TurboSystem Response Video #1

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TurboSystem Response Video #4

TurboSystem Response Video #5

TurboSystem Response Video #6

TurboSystem Response Video #7

The differences between turbos and superchargers are subtle but important.  Both provide additional air into the engine for more power.  The most essential difference is the method of driving the turbo or supercharger.  Turbochargers are driven by exhaust energy which is usually otherwise wasted out of your tailpipe into the atmosphere.  Superchargers are driven by a belt which draws power from your engine's crankshaft.  The advantages of turbocharging over supercharging include:

1.  More power produced per pound of boost (intake pressure), since the turbo does not rob engine power from the crankshaft like a supercharger. 

2.  Variable power levels: a turbocharged engine can be set up to provide different power (boost) levels at the push of a button, while a supercharged engine requires changing pulleys and belts to change power levels.  This turbocharger versatility can be quite handy in many instances.

3.   No maintenance, adjustment or replacement of drive belts and pulleys is required for turbochargers, an aspect which frustrates some supercharger owners.

4.  Turbos offer much higher overall power potential, with the ability to be modified easily for higher power levels in the future.  Superchargers are more expensive to upgrade for more power, if upgrades exist at all.

5.  A supercharger's drive belt will stress the crankshaft and adjacent main bearing due to the additional strain of driving the supercharger, while turbochargers are widely regarded as being quite easy on engines.  It is not unusual to see stock type engine components surviving at power levels of two to three times their stock output when turbocharging is employed!

6.  The TurboSystem will usually be easier to install, especially on four cylinder engines.


EGT Monitoring

EGT (exhaust gas temperature) monitoring can be a very effective tool in tuning, but "ideal" EGT can vary from engine to engine dependant upon combination.  Usually, 1300 to 1500 degrees F is optimal for normally aspirated engines on gas, while gas turbos will run optimally @ 1500 to 1650.  An important note:  this is measured before the turbo, not after, as the turbo will reduce EGT by an average 200 degrees F.

Finding the optimal EGT signature for your engine is a trial and error (hopefully more trial than error!) procedure, and other factors such as power output, plug readings and air fuel ratio equipment should be used to corroborate the data.  Once you have ascertained this ideal EGT, it should be repeatable regardless of climatic conditions:  simply tune for the same previously determined optimal EGT, and your engine should perform at full available output under any ambient conditions.

Easy error for new users of EGT: high temps indicate lean condition.  Not always true!  Excessively rich conditions will result in "after burn", where the fuel, which was unable to completely combust due to insufficient oxygen in the cylinder, lights off in the exhaust system, causing an unusually high temp reading.  If all other indicators still suggest a rich mixture, try leaning in small steps, and you will likely see the EGT go down.  Just be sure that the power does not also go down from the changes.  If you are on the right track, power should go up noticeably as you lean towards optimal mixture while EGT drops.  As you approach and then pass the optimal mixture point, the EGT will begin to climb again.  STOP! Richen by one step and you are there!  Now, when climatic conditions worsen (i.e.: hotter temperature, more humidity, less air density), lean until you get that optimum EGT again.  If conditions improve (colder weather, lower altitude, less humidity), richen for optimal EGT.  Bear in mind: if EGT suddenly changes for no apparent reason, you may have an aggravating factor (ignition problem, fuel pressure wrong, clogged air inlet, etc.) which is unrelated to tuning.  Be observant, and the indicators should guide you to the right tuning decision. 

Another caveat:  Air fuel ratios, which are not optimal throughout the entire available RPM and manifold condition range, will mislead you.  In other words, an optimal EGT signature at high RPM may not show an incorrect condition at lower RPM or different manifold pressure.  Although perplexing, this problem is truly the difference between a happy, powerful and long-lived engine and one that is trying to destroy itself slowly but surely.  It is one reason why the precision of fuel injection is usually superior to carburetion in both power production and engine life.  Just watch ALL the indicators, and remember: lean is mean, and fuel is power.  Instead of continuously trying to lean it for maximum HP, try to find ways to get more air to the engine, and thusly support the combustion of more fuel.  There's only so many BTU's in a gallon of fuel, no matter how you burn it.  Just try to burn more fuel!


Slicks or Street tires? What's best for driveline durability?

 
First, a bit of wisdom regarding slick use...the prevailing philosophy is that slicks are harder on driveline components than street tires. This is not necessarily true. Slicks, while they certainly can transmit more continuous torque to the driveline than street tires, do have one major benefit...they don't impart the torque 'spikes' that street tires can, and it's these 'spikes' that damage more axles and differentials/transaxles than many imagine. Where do these 'spikes' come from? Two conditions: 'spin and hook', and wheel hop.
 
 
Spin and Hook

In 'spin and hook', the street tires spin when power is applied, and can spin VERY hard. When they do suddenly hook up, the momentary torque transmitted can be many times the continuous torque potential. Where does all this momentary torque come from? We all know that energy can't be destroyed, it can only be converted. The kinetic energy of a wildly spinning driveline is amazing. It's all one big flywheel, and a very heavy one at that, when you add the weight of all that is spinning (wheels, tires, differential, axles, transmission shafts/gears).

Ever feel the 'surge' forward that occurs when the tires suddenly hook and stop spinning? That's the conversion of all that kinetic energy into movement. Now, another thing is also happening. Not only is the flywheel effect described above at play, but what else happens? The engine, along with its flywheel and clutch assembly, is suddenly decelerated massively, thus the RPM drop when the tires hook up. More energy we cannot destroy! So, now, not only does the driveline have to put up with the sudden flywheel effect of itself decelerating, its also getting yanked on through the other end (input) by all that energy of the sudden deceleration of the engine and flywheel/clutch. Add to this the weight of the vehicle being surged forward, and you can imagine how much momentary load is seen. Every item in your driveline has a torque limit, and if that limit is exceeded even momentarily, the damage can be instant.

Slicks typically won't allow these severe 'spin and hook' issues, and thus, can actually reduce the attendant strain on the driveline.

 
 
Wheel Hop

The other major culprit is wheel hop. Folks, do NOT ever allow wheel hop to occur. If you feel it beginning, lift off the throttle...NOW. Wheel hop is a smaller version of the phenomenon described above, but in a way, it's even worse...with every 'hop', the over-torque occurs. If there's ten 'hops' before it stops hopping, which can take but a couple seconds, that's ten death-blows to the driveline.

Slicks tend to eliminate wheel hop due to the 'resonance' of the floppier slick tire as compared to a stiff street tire. Taken another way, the slick acts as a shock absorber, stopping the wind-up and release of suspension that causes wheel-hop.
 
 
The Common Misperception

Back in the day when we were first turbocharging Neons, we regularly were told that the drivelines would NEVER hold up. We were told, "Why, my buddy with his 14 second Neon busts axles all the time! How could it ever hold up to double the power?"

Seems logical on the surface, sure! But what the fellow didn't know are the real reasons why his buddy was shredding axles. Yep...it was all about 'spin and hook' and wheel-hop.

We proceeded to run as fast as high 11's on stock axles with slicks before we needed to upgrade the axles. And get this...we ran high 9's on a stock transaxle-equipped (Quaife differential) drag Neon with 600HP, and did it repeatedly!

Further evidence is shown in the very fast Hot Rod (NHRA) or Pro 4-Cylinder (NDRA) classes of racing. Did you know that there are Hondas there that run in the eight-second zone on huge slicks with warmed-over STOCK 5-speed transaxles? Sure, they put in better diffs and axles, and don't get many passes off a stock-based trans, but they do it...all the time, with power in the 1000HP range.
 
 
FWD One-Wheel Burnouts
 
One other aspect that leads to early stock differential failure...one-wheel burnouts. Whatever you do, do NOT participate in this ruinous activity! I have been at the track and seen cars doing this so many times, and I cringe...why, sometimes I can even hear the spider and side gears HOWLING from 30 feet away while this is going on!

Why does this kill diffs? Bear in mind, the stock diff is designed to do one thing...enable the tires to turn at different speeds to allow you to turn left or right without binding. The speed difference between the axles under this intended use of the diff is, at worst, approaching 2:1...the diff gears barely even turn. What do you think those gears are doing when one wheel is going 60MPH and one is standing still in a one-wheel burn? These gears don't even have real bearings in them, for they should not need them...the lubrication problems alone from one-wheel burnouts can trash a diff faster than you can say 'Phantom Grip'!
 
 
What makes a stock differential stronger?

Does a product such as a Phantom Grip strengthen the differential? In straight ahead acceleration with both wheels hooked up, no. FWD vehicles have one inherent advantage over their RWD cousins with engines in the front of the car...natural engine torque reaction does not tend to reduce pressure on one wheel, encouraging the other to spin. Thus, a FWD car with slicks and a Phantom Grip is no durable than the same car with a stock diff. Slicks tend to ensure that both wheels stay hooked equally, so a stock diff on a car with slicks is not made stronger by the addition of that PG. However, a Quaife or PG is a real good idea on street tire cars that drag race, if only to discourage one wheel from taking off and spinning much harder than the other, whether in a burnout or on the track.

But there's something no trick diff can ever do, and that's change your driving habits. If it spins, LIFT. Get right back into it if you like, but never keep your foot mashed to the floor unless you like buying driveline components with money you could spend on other things.
 
-Bill Hahn Jr., copyright 2008

 

 


*Some products listed are legal for sale or use in CA only for racing vehicles which may never be driven on a public highway.

 

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